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Installation of Carburetor: CT70

This is how you should start to re install your fuel tank & lines to run them through the frame to the carburetor.
You will need some duct tape & about 4-5 feet of twine. Don't try it with less than 3 1/2 feet or it becomes too difficult.
I like duct tape as opposed to masking tape because duct tape comes off relatively easily. Masking tape is actually too sticky for this procedure.
In the carb kit you received 2 new fuel lines. One short, one long.  There are 2 fuel line connections on the tank. The lower line connection on the tank is for the reserve line, which you will see on the carb in these instructions later. The shorter of the 2 fuel lines supplied gets affixed to the reserve connection on the tank. Consequently, the longer one goes to the "on" connection on the tank, which is the higher of the two. Connect the lines accordingly.
Affix the ends of the twine with the duct tape to each line as shown. A tip is to only take about 2 inches of duct tape to do this. You don't want to go around 5 times or you'll never get it off. You only need to hold the twine on very lightly. Also, once i get the hunk of duct tape from the roll, i like to stick it to my clothing a few times to get a coat of lint on. This will help when you go to pull it off later. It makes it a lot easier.
Leave about 1.5 inches of the end of the fuel line showing before the tape, as shown.
For the reserve line, leave a little extra "flag" to denote that is in fact the reserve line, as you will not be able to tell otherwise once you get the 2 lines through the frame. I have the reserve line marked "R" with a marker for this instruction, but it is not necessary.

Here we have the single piece of twine with each end attached to the lines.
The twine is there so you can just lay the tank on it's side on the body of the bike & feed the twine through the frame.

With one hand, feed the twine into the frame & with the other, pull it through.

Now that you have the lines through, you can install the airbox. You will notice that the airbox has a rubber boot that fits up into this cavity in the frame. That boot must remain intact with it's rubber insert in place.

Then, install the carburetor, making sure that the gasket that lives in between the intake pipe & the cylinder head is in place.

Do not overtighten the bolts that hold the two 6mm thread/10mm head intake pipe mounting bolts. The specification is 6 foot lbs.

Now that the carburetor is installed, you can hook up the lines. It's advisable to use a bit of grease on the connections in case you screw up & have to get them off.
You will notice in this photo that i am attaching the reserve line to the TOP hose connection point on the carb. This is the way it needs to be. The top connection point on the carb has a very small "R" embossed at the base of it. "R" is for reserve, which is the line with the aforementioned flag on it.
Just hook the other line to the other connection. That one is also marked. You will notice a very small "O" embossed at the base. "O" is for on.

Just pull the tape off at this point. It should tear relatively easy.

This is the atmospheric line. It does not connect to anything. Simply tuck it away under the choke lever & behind the fuel lines along the same route into the frame rail cavity.

Here is where your atmospheric line should wind up.

Another shot of the atmospheric line & fuel lines.

This is the "W" clip that lives down in the throttle slide. If you ever take the needle out & can't figure out how it goes back in, this is the way. It must be all the way down in the slide or the needle will have up & down movement. To make sure that you have it all the way down, give the pointy end of the needle a VERY light tap. It should not come up at all. It will wobble a bit  & that's normal, but it should not come up at all.

The photo above shows the orientation of the fuel lines, carburetor vent lines & the carb bowl drain.

The photo above shows the view of the area under the air cleaner. Both fuel lines, the spark plug wire & the stator wires all run to this location. If you have one of my CT70 carb kits, the additional carburetor vent line runs here as well.

Cable End

For 82cc Power up kits Remove Intake Snout As Shown Below

The photo below depicts the four 8mm thread bosses where your footpeg/step bar mounts. I have cleaned these threaded bosses by running a thread cutting tap through all of them. I have torque tested these bosses/threaded holes to withstand the 19 foot lbs. You must torque these bolts to 17-19 ft lbs. Make sure that the threads on the bolts you are installing are in good shape & can be turned in by hand. The more force you need to use to install these bolts into the engine by hand, the higher the chances are that you will damage the threads in the bosses & repairing them at your end will prove costly & time consuming. If you damage the threads on the engine by installing bolts with deformed threads or simply by overtightening them, you are responsible for the repair of those threaded bosses. The original bolts in this part of the engine were prone to loosening & if not periodically tightened by the owner, the threads would become marred from the loose footpeg par banging into the backed out threads on the bolts. Then, if the owner tried to tighten the bolts, he was damaging the threads in the bosses, by forcing the mangled bolt. I have assured that threaded bosses on the engine are in good shape & I may have performed a heli- coil thread repair on one or more of them. Installing those old bolts is ok, but if the threads are marred, they will damage the threaded holes & could potentially start the process described above. Be sure you use good bolts (buy new ones if you must) with good, clean threads & do not overtorque them. Undertorquing them will also cause an issue in that the vibrations & heavy load will loosen them & cause the marring that i mentioned above & they will eventually rip out. Consider for a minute that these 4 bolts support the riders weight entirely when the rider stands up. Think of what kind of load the bolts take when a heavier rider stands up & lands off even a small jump or obstacle. These bolts don't have an easy life & a lot is expected from them to keep the rider safe. If you would like to cover the bases on this scenario, the use of some TEMPORARY (not permanent) thread locking agent (I.E. Permatex Loctite 242/"blue" or equivalent temporary/removable thread locking agent) on properly torqued bolts with good threads will assure that what you put in will stay in place & never cause an issue. Here is an on line source for Loctite in case you are far from a source. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=3120&store=&catId=&productId=p3120&leafCatId=&mmyId= If you don't have a local source for 20mm long, 8x1.25mm threaded bolts & washers & would like to buy some, you can get them here: http://dratv.stores.yahoo.net/mabrpe.html You will need four of the part in figure # 20, which is part # B64P. These are the 20mm long bolt & lockwasher combo. You may also need four of the part in figure #24, which is part #833410. These are the stainless steel washer with the 8mm diameter hole for the above bolt. Here is a helpful diagram in which you can see the orientation of the bolt, lock washer & flat washer arrangement in the link here http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/dratv_2075_20240049 *NEVER * use any bolt that is longer than 20mm long for this application. Doing so will cause you to pierce through the aluminum casting in the engine, causing catastrophic damage, letting out all of the oil & needing complete engine disassembly to weld end repair.

This photo below shows how the exhaust fits back into the head. If you have an exhaust set up with 2 half moons like you see in this pitcure, the half moons go in AFTER the exhaust pipe. So, install your exhaust pipe with the flange all the way up & in, hold it in place & then put the half moons in, then the collar with the 2 holes.



BREAK IN THE ENGINE SLOWLY Add fresh gas, then start bike and hold engine at a fast idle. Never allow a
newly built engine to sit at idle, use cooling fans pointed directly at the engine to control heat buildup.

RIDE THE BIKE Run through the gears, accelerating slowly. Do not over-rev or lug the engine. Ride for about 20
minutes, then shut down and allow engine to cool completely. Do this heat cycle 2 more times.